Phou Khoun, (I pronounce it Fu kon-el) To Xieng Ngeun

Phou Khoun

After a stormy night with heavy rain that woke both of us at an ungodly hour followed by an encore a wee while after Ellen slept till nearly 8.00am due to the interlude of sleep.

It was nice when we surfaced, a cooler start than previous as we were at 1300 meters.

Xiao Lyu was covered in shit from the day prior and I washed the radiator mesh out as it was caked, while she kept her cool the fan was on for a lot of the trip.

The road was good in parts

We had done a couple of passes but the overall drop to Xieng Ngeun was 1000 meters, we decided to stop there, it was a pleasant place and my shoulders were feeling bad after the 99km trip which took just over 4 hours, yeap averaged about 25km per hour as it was rough but only partially muddy.

Typical road and ....non road.

Some descents were so steep we re down to 1^st gear and braking reasonably hard, bearing in mind this is the 13N so main road north and the trucks drive this “road”, there in no wonder every few km there is a truck with a flatty, pissing fluids out, overheating etc it is a hardarse road.   

Stunning mountain scenery was unveiled when mum nature rolled back the clouds.

We stopped for a piss and lunch, the road was deserted then as soon as Ellen dropped her tweeds 6 cars one after the other rolled passed, not sure if they saw the asian moon but it was funny.  

The village of Xieng Ngeun

The final 6 km long descent my arms/shoulders were quivering under downhill braking so needless to say when we reached the flat I was quite relieved.

The town looked nice from coming down the road looking at it so we decided to call it quits for the day.

As it would turn out, according to google, there is a café that does proper coffee, I felt inspired and conned Ellen into a walk to find the mythical café, to our surprise it existed and to our bigger surprise the lady could make a good coffee, Ellen being skeptical waited till I got mine before she ordered hers, turns out it was exactly the same machine we have at home….which does make a good coffee.

Argh...normal civilian type stuff, the seating at said Cafe, I wasn't ready for a superstar unfluenza...I mean influencer shot LOL.

Luang Probang tomorrow to do some terroruisty things.

Veintiane To Somewhere And Back To Phou Khoun

Veintiane To Somewhere And Back To Phou Khoun 

Our last night in Veintiane was quiet and nice, the previous night however was not.

A French guy decided to have a spat with another guy right outside our door at 2.00am, being less than amused and wakened by his talents I opened the door and told him it was not a good idea what he was doing, the other guy was just havin a doobie and agreed but French bastid kept on for a bit saying he was gonna leave in the morning bla bla bla…. I told him almost politely with an angry look to fuck off….which he did.

Next day in the avo we were talking with a fella Eric from Norway and doing some adjustments on our bike screen and Frenchie came past so I bailed him up and said why haven’t you gone….well now conveniently he didn’t seem to understand so I told him nice and slow that if he wakes us again tonight it would be very bad for his health….which he understood very well….then almost became apologetic.

We had just pinged a small clip cover off the windscreen of our bike and I still had our Wenger Knife in my hand and only for that reason ….turns out he was sorta looking at that along with my firm stance on his 2am talent and he decided it was better to shut up and bugga off.

That night was peaceful, thankyou Mr Wenger.

Leaving in the wet then coming dry was an uneventful fully legal trip back up to Vang Veing, the afty saw a good walk almost to a lookout where the last bit turned into grade 5 which we were not prepared for so back into town watching flying machines and hot air ballons doing their thing.

Phonsavan next desto, road reports are varied from very shit to not bad, time will tell.    

On our way out yet again the scenery is stunning

Ha, now I am writing this bit from Phou Khoun, we made it here under pretty crap road conditions, nearly 5 hours to do 100km, our turn right took us 30km along the road which progressively got worse, bearing in mind this is the main road to Phonsavan and the main trucking route.

At about 30 km we came across a front end loader and a truck parked in the middle of the road, we rode through 100mm deep slope past it and got just around the corner to see why it was parked there.

Trucks, not 1 or 2 but as far as we could see around the valley then disappeared behind the hill then reappeared km away down the valley with I am guessing 300 plus trucks, stuck, strewn across the road no one going anywhere, the scene was unreal.

Look into the middle of this pic and see the trucck, km of them

It quickly became apparent we had no fud, no accommodation and no way through and we still had 100 km left to do and how much of it was like this we didn’t know.

An executive decision was made right then we were going to turn back and find somewhere for the night and reshape our trip again. This is the second time we have been forced to do a u turn.

I let the front tire down as the mud was half sticky semi dry but wet bog and slipperier than a border control money changer.

Ellen piled off to help reduce the weight for this shithole section.

I was tired, sweating my ring-piece off and my shoulders were aching so not ideal conditions for a smile but we had to maintain a grin and soldier on, without whining it was hard work and to be fair the tires were out of there depth and paygrade on this stuff, limitations of dual purpose.

Back thru the villages the roads are appauling, this is of course a main road and trucking route

After having our arse handed to us again with a closed road we decided to stop at a small restaurant / local eatery, the guy was super helpful and much appreciative that we stopped there and bought lunch, we had a bit of a chat via translate etc, just as we were getting ready to go he came out with two small tubs of homemade icecream which his mother makes, and he gave them to us, super kind people with a heart of gold.

How to turn a hard day into a special day.

30km saw us back to Phou Khoun, mud, potholes, gravel some broken tar, etc and I was spent so plan B was activated and we found a guesthouse which served the purpose.

Tomorrow forever hopeful we will make it to Luang Probang for a coupla days.

Enjoy the vid

          

Lak Sao To Veintiane And Mysterious TIP.....

From Lak Sao it started to drizzle, then rain, I decided to jacket up with wet gear which turned out to be a great decision as the heavens opened on us full swing.

No stress, I don’t mind wet riding and it isn’t cold here although having acclimatized 23 degrees in rain feels cold now.

Reaching the main drag saw us back up to Paksan and in the dry, we returned to the guesthouse that we stayed at on the way down, the lady was very excited to see us again and thanked us for choosing her place again, truth is it was because of her polite, friendly and welcoming attitude coupled with undercover parking and quiet made it a gem for us.

Into Vientiane which is the capital of Laos we chose a Hotel/Hostel with a pool, in 33 degree heat that was excellent.

As part of our mission we had to get documents printed and tried our hardest to find someone to notarize them as done by me etc but the two different Lawyers office we went to would not touch what they could not understand because it was in English, we also went to the Department of foreign affairs…..nup and another office wanted a few days to translate in Laos first and make a meal of it, of course there are plenty of people in New Zealand in our Court System that can read Laos, ຂ້ອຍຈຳເປັນຕ້ອງເຊັນເອກະສານສຳລັບນິວຊີແລນ. (spell check went mad at me for this LOL)

What a mission for a seemingly simple task, Plan B now which has been printed etc and sent to a JP in Kiwiland.

Some monuments from our walks

And a statue

Just for reference...that black cloud is real and did this

Part of the night market area we didn't quite get to due to the above the previous night so this time was good

Now the main task was to extend our Temporary Import Permit for Xiao Lyu, we as humans get 30 days but Xiao Lyu as metal motonoid only gets 14 days, brilliant work by customs.

So, we found the immigration building and found someone who could speak English, he informed us the we cannot do it there and it must be at the immigration at the border control, more fine outstanding simplicity at it finest, the border was 20 km away across the biggest city in Laos…FFS, riding in 33 degrees on a moto with shit tonnes of traffic lights.

In the morning we saddled up to get across town and go to the border to get the paperwork sorted as we did not want the TIP to expire or we are in the shit and subject to fines or worse if they feel so.

This time and several offices later being told to go from pillar to post and finally …”you need to go to room 105”, we did this and found a lovely lady who could speak English and much gibbering between 4-5 customs agents and border people she said to us…..they didn’t lock it in when we entered Laos??

After some head scratching it would seem that we had a piece of paper that had not been saved into “the system”, so it didn’t exist...another words…flash looking toilet paper.

The Customs Immigration way to fix it was to forget about the 7 day extension we could get and our piece of paper never happened, they gave Xaio Lyu 14 days and treated it like it was a fresh entry into Laos…..WTF …this is all meant to be legal stuff, confirming again that 99% of “border control” stuff is simply a money grab as proven yet again left and right hand do not talk.

Not to argue we went with the flow and got our brand new 14 day entry….welcome to Laos.

From here a slight backtrack for part then off into the abyss we go again with our new found extra time.

A quick vid on our happs

           

Champassak To Thakhek To Lak Sao

Champassak completed.

We didn’t really wonna stomp the same ground twice but didn’t have much choice unfortunately so we knuckled down and got into it, was like a new trip going the other way LOL.

Taking a side road out from just past Savaanakhet was cool, slightly lesser condition than the main but a distinct lack of big trucks was our reward.

Visions of romance and a waterside homestay quickly diminished as al lot were closed, we found one that was open but it looked dodgier than back yard drug deal at night.

We had done 313 km already, to be fair 90% of it was pretty reasonable main road/highway so not a biggie and we had left early because a fuckin rooster started chiming off at 5.00am…little bastid.

Deciding to carry on we stumped up the last 48 km and got to Thakhet and got a dodgy hotel there, backyard parking for Xiao Lyu so sweetas.

Planning our next day was firstly to The Giant Wall near Thakhek is a 15km-long sandstone formation, sparking debate about its origins. Some believe it's a natural geological wonder, while others suggest it was built by an ancient civilization. A 75-meter section, 16 meters high, is accessible to visitors, with a historic Christian shrine nearby. (that by Gooooogle)

Pics

It was ok, geologically cool but not much to write home about, the tentative desto was Lak Sao, piling off down the No 12 road we soon hit WW3 super mega bombholed road and literally hundreds of truck pushing and shoving trying for a undamaged road, the only bit was very short and the WW3 section lasted 30 km, about 10 km into it we were thinking bugga this and turn around but I thought won’t be much longer and it will be done.

Well…it didn’t, took us over an hour dodging trucks, undertaking, overtaking, stopping for on coming trucks in our lane (what there was of it).

Finally it started smoothing out to WW2 so not as bad, we stopped and decided to air down a bit then not far up an intersection and a sign….”no heavy trucks past this point”, a blessing from the Moto Gods, the truck all going to the Vietnam border.

So the road went from the undisputed worst in Laos to an epic hill climb followed by beautiful twisties up at 600 cooler meters with no traffic, black and white or night and day.

Then up on the tops which was laced in lakes

You would not credit the difference within such a small distance…but we weren’t complaining as after the bad part the rest was well worthy and pleasant.

Reaching Lak Sao we decided that was enough, a 200km day was done and dusted, I really REALLY wanted a coffee once we had settled in, jokingly I put in coffee near me in google and beside our hotel and down an alley it said there was a cafe, we checked it out and sure enough there it was, a café and the owner could speak English.

We had our best coffee in Laos right there, was sorta surreal

These two cheeky little buggas, I know they were pissing the piss outa the whiteyfoo LOL

That evening after a chowdown saw a quick walk around the village in lite rain, to finish we watched a lady weeving/sewing/making some small material thingies.

  A vid of today

Back to the main road tomorrow.  

Vang Vieng Down To Champassak

Vang Vieng done and dusted and what a cool place is.

Travel days, ok, so every now and then you gotta tuck in and get on with what you are doing, given the imitation irritation immigration gave us 30 logical days for humans but Xiao Lyu an illogical 14 days so we had to think how we are going to make the most of want we don’t have.

Normally in true TMK fashion we would slow right down, get on the ground level and enjoy Laos for what it is, for us it is a mission as we are here on our own transport which is how we love to travel and get to see what we want to then we a not stuck on a bus with a bunch of old people going to somewhere they take you to which is normally the hotel which are stark and they get a kickback from and the eating venues where the bus driver gets a free lunch, this is pretty obvious here without sounding like a fat shammer (but the people here have no idea of the shit that sugar does to you, they getting podgy bro).

So blasting down the main road in 450 style (90-100), stunning flat nice new road for a change took on a hole new dimension, I will explain.

So, there are two types of Hilux’s here, one that comes with only 1.5 gears and only does 30kmph with steering that is ridiculously unpredictable at best.

The second is the 38 speed fast and furious model, these come with wankers in them who think the entire road is theirs and they do 130kmph in heavy traffic, there are assertive/aggressive drivers which I like cos ya know what they are goin to do…then there are complete fucktards who pull out into oncoming trucks, flash the lights and they go through and fuck them….and us …which I don’t like, the appeal of being a hood ornament is less then enticing.

I think China has sent their worst drivers to Southern Laos and said…go make a fucken mess. We saw Utes that had been considerably shortened and they were not hit by flies.

That off my chest now it was a drive and survive day and we survived somehow, getting our accommodation sorted in Paksan we had a good kip and very nice homestay guesthouse, the lady bent over backwards for us, a diamond she was.

Next desto, Savannakhet, again another death defying day of “will the Kiwis get killed today”, nah, easy done. Was a long hall but remember we are busting a few km to see what we wonna.

Our first sunset since leaving home

 The second mission in Savannakhet is to figure out when and where we can extend Xiao Lyu’s temporary import permit (TIP). Off we went to the No2 Friendship Bridge which is 6km away from town center. A nice customs officer who can speak a little bit English which was very helpful. We were told that we can only renew the TIP on the expire date. We can do it at any international boarder town. Even weekends. They are working 7 days. Here you go, google said we have to do it at least 3 days prior, don’t rely on the net get the info from the guys who know.

Valet parking sir, why not

We went out to the river (MecKong) for dinner. Here we found the biggest night market we’ve been in Laos. Lots of lots of eateries here. Most of food Ellen still can’t eat – being cautious for not getting her hives back. We finally chose a big bowl of mushroom soup. It’s delicious. Unfortunately, neither of us didn’t slept well, not sure it had something to do with the green colour.

Savannakhet to all the way down to Champassak to the ruins, reasonable day at 220km but, well big for two old farts on a Chinese Donkey anyway. Deciding to stay near to the ruins we stopped at a hotel, checking it out the beds were like bricks and the courtyard was empty as a ghost town ….NAH. I had in our nav a guesthouse just around the corner where I am writing this from so yeap it panned out cool being on the waterfront and all.

The place we stayed at the kitchen was not working that night (his son and daughter were away) so we piled next door for a romantic dinner for two, riverside with nice music, green curry chicken, coconut banana pudding…and mosquitos, to be fair the mossies only come out at a certain time which funny enough is dinner time, we were it LOL.

Dinner, the view and the pud

The ruins, just some of many pics

The ruins provided us with a pretty cool afternoon, amazing the craftsmanship that went into building the walls, building etc...then we went to the museum, Ellen liked it but I would rather go to the dentist.   

We left the ruins, the skies quietly darkened behind us and we made it back before mum nature rinsed the place. So, having firmly reached the bottom of our Laos attack, nothing like a firm bottom (that I can remember) it was time to do a 180 and head back up to get Xiao Lyus extension done (she is a trouble maker).

That to come.

 

Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng

All settled in at the place we weren’t at was cool, small bungalow, pretty budget but comfy and quiet and an electrocute yourself style shower.

Street fud 

There are many caves, viewpoints and walks here, the backdrop surrounding the town is nothing short of abrupt stone sharp mountains with masculine lines.

Our “day off” we chose to go to a cave and swimming area, it was very nice indeed and being around the 30 degrees mark it was nice to ditch the moto gear and do some civvy stuff.

147 steps to start

The caves were pretty cool, very touristy and lit up with LEDs.

We watched the young punks have a competition of out jumping each other and people swimming, it was really relaxing.

They also had a cave system in which you can hold onto a rope and pull your way through, it was very cool indeed.

Just back under saftey of our roof the rain started...it came down our driveway like a wall

Spotted this on a dinner run, a pork cooker rotiscary all rotating by a car windscreen motor quietly whirring away...yeah I know but the midnightpsychoengineers amoungst you will have a chuckle. 

Will let Ellens vid do the rest including the 147 step climb at 30 stickie degrees.

The Bike Review - How Does Xiao Lyu Stack Up

The bike

6000 km on ride review.

So was our choice any good compared to other motos, we believe yes.

Is it perfect, no but Grace Jones song comes to mind, it is our perfect compromise.

Fuel efficiency is outstanding, sometimes a little too outstanding as is has a typical EU5 fueling lean as hell feel right at cruising speeds which of course is how they all “comply” and get through the emissions tests.

One day cruising mountain roads, combo twisty and straight, some main road cruising it used only 2.8 liters per 100 km, I will qualify that by adding our maximum achievable speeds was about 80 kmph due to so much traffic.

The goodies we added are,

Front and rear cameras 

Hard luggage 87L total

Heated grips

Mount for Nav

Front mudflap to keep the radiator cleaner

Chain Lube bottle

Barkbusters

Radiator mesh protection

Setup, bought the handlebars back to the third position for shorter reach.

Set spring preload for two of us.

Set Ellens seat 8 mm higher at the front, the thickness of M8 nuts we have on board.

Problems we have had, the fueling wasn’t quite right from new, went back to the dealership at 1000 km and they did some tests which showed no error codes and reset the TPS, and its great now, right hand side fork seal started leaking and had to be replaced, usual as they are KYB forks, thus far that is it and not a biggie in the scheme of things.

Moto Morini sent a complete new right hand side fork stanchion, new disc and pads as they had sucked up the leaking oil, well done and thank you, it took us less than an hour to complete the job so very happy.

Handling wise it does everything we want it to with ease, granted we are not hammering it off-road but we are still taking it back country where longer wheel travel and 21 in front wheel are a huge advantage for rough, wet and muddy roads, not that we have found any of that LOL.

Dislike or Disappointment, radiator guard…that’s it, would be a $2 buck part but there was nothing hence we put mesh on there, it is an adventure bike and the radiator is steering and the back of the front wheel in direct line of fire, prior putting the mesh on we had to hose out the rad cos it collected half of China.

Oil Change At both 1000 km and 6000km

The magnetic drain bung was as clean as my Tenere and far cleaner than any Ducati I have owned.

The oil came out still pretty clean looking despite running in up to 37 degrees temperatures and riding up to nearly 4600 meters, it has had our two fat arses complete with partial house and contents from new so straight into hard work.

Conclusion

Now I know some critics are harsh on the Chinese bikes, I have to be fair the initial CFmotos etc we got in New Zealand were crap, the Moto Morini fit and finish etc are as good as my Tenere which is a well respected benchmark, the quality of the components are as good as it gets for a mid range adventure bike.

This is NOT a bike to take on hefty offroad and I can’t understand why some testers then dis on them for what they are not designed for, conversely you won’t see Valentino Rossi on the MotoGP circuit with one either, horses for courses.

As an international moto traveller the bike is perfect, twin cylinder, smooth as, comfortable and pretty snively on fuel, coupled with an 18.5 liter tank you have an adventure ready piece of kit that will more than do it, it has enough tech to be cool but not overboard, it will keep up easily with open road traffic and has ample power for us two up for overtaking etc.       

Would I recommend one, at this point notwithstanding anything catastrophic I absolutely recommend the Moto Morini for adventure touring and riding, having ridden the CFmoto 450 MT I would choose the Moto Morini any day due to looks, fueling, comfort and ease of riding, the only advantage the Cfmoto 450MT has is a minimally lower seat for shorties, having paid for ours we stand to gain nothing from this other than satisfaction and acknowledging Moto Morini as a smaller brand doing it well.

While there are a plethora of 450 ish bikes on the market there are very few that all add up to a good all-round trustworthy bike.