The bridge, nothing small about this, 1420 m or 1.42 km clear single
span and 625 m or 0.63 of a km high, a piece of engineering and art with a night lights display to match.
We couldn’t get a place to stay in the village beneath as it was booked
out (school holidays) so we opted for the cheap seats further back (cos we had no choice LOL).
Was pretty good actually, we were only 3 km away, was an easy ride then
a broken concrete and dirt style to the top by the bridge abutments where we
watched the light display.
It was pretty cool to get there, I am interested in the engineering side
of things and it only took them 44 months to complete which is cool. Google
Huajiang Bridge for all the stats and figure so I don’t send you to sleep.
Pics and vids can do the rest of the talking.
The waterfall supposed to be twice a day, one in daylight and one at night but we saw it three times.
We were there.
Xiao Lyu deserved a shot
I was here
Columns with the waterfall behind, Xiao Lyu took the last bit in her stride easily
Leaving Guiyang
city, home for 4 nights was nice to get back out again…but with reservations as
to the level of daily onslaught.
Our choice
of destination didn’t quite work out, there was however a good lunch spot, the
people were nice although the lady musta been half deaf cos she was yelling at
us...but nicely…Chinese are already loud but she was at expert level LOL.
I parked
the bike so we wouldn‘t get boxed in by a tin cage zombie …but they tried, now
full cred to the restaurant people they came out a firmly pointed him along 10
meters, yeap 10, they will sit and wait or barge in so they don’t have to walk.
Anyway, we
arrived at a place to Puding, missing one d there was none, but plenty of other
puddings to choose from if you wish.
Puding old town, over 600 years old
Being a
middle town of very little terrouristy stuff we used it as a stepping stone,
again the hotel people were very helpful and nice, a common theme to be fair.
Having had
our puding we set off in a known direction and an unknown desto, a coupla
places along the way were ok but just were all very small town so limited accom
and what was there was no air conditioning….at 33 degrees that is a must for
sanity.
Coupla shots from along the way
We arrived
at a cool place called Baichehe, stopped at one place which looked doge so we
slicked off into town, the first few were full then Ellen found a good place, a
few buildings back, quieter and a courtyard for Xiao Lyu to sit in ….it was
nice and quiet.
Hot pools,
got my attention so we planned the following day to smudge back and relax a
little. The afternoon we took off for a walk to a lookout, it was hot, sticky,
steep and so nice to have a good sweat out.
We didn’t quite
make it to the lookout as there was a section of the track that was in fact
just the edge of the road which was…yeah….nah.
Fast Forward
to said hot pools, the evening was pretty relaxed, we snuck in some red wine to
slaughter and picked an ok temp to start in.
Ellen found
a pool just a little further round which was warmer by 3-4 degrees ish …suited
me fine loving the heat soon bringing the ol bod to “teenage mode enabled” and
feeling looser.
Some genral pics, the town clock
Water wheels the feature of the town
Two nights went quickly and now with China tallest and longest bridge in our sights that’s where we heading.
Well, I am struggling
to put pen to paper and I am extremely demotivated, to be honest it has been
rough, very rough.
It started
when we went to an “Old Town” terrorouisty spot, parked in the moto specific parking
area, we came back to find a Tin Cage Zombie had parked DIAGONALLY into the
moto park and right up to our left case so I couldn’t walk around it and made
it very difficult to get to, further the people parked legally were blocked in
and could not get out.
What will happen
to fucken retarded wanker who illegally parked and fucked other peoples day…nothing
despite all the cameras and rules.
I pushed
our bike out slithering past so we could access our luggage etc, then the owner
of a car on the other side came out and wanted to go tooting etc, I am like
FUCK YOU you can wait now as I am in the middle of putting on my boots and
trousers, Ellen then got angry at me and said I have to be polite and not cause
trouble…..like the fuckwit who parked on top of us...yeah right.
Further up
the road travelling on our way we pulled out to pass another Tin Cage Zombie and he pulled
across in front of us right when we were next to his door, we were so close to railing
off into the ditch it wasn’t funny and I don’t know how but I held it, had we gone
in it WOULD have been the ended of our trip….and probably our lives.
He knew he
had just committed a crime and speed off, we caught him up in traffic and we
pulled along side, I punched his mirror flat to make him stop, right at the
point was an exit to the right and he fucked off up there with haste, if he
carried on in the traffic and stopped it would have been very very bad for his
health and he knew that.
Despite
that with our cameras on board front and rear the Police would just say drive
carefully and you are still here so no charges against him….there would be no
repercussions against him….fucken communism.
The day
didn’t get any better as we were run off a corner into the veges by a truck on
our side….COMPLETELY on our side….another episode of unless you die nothing
will happen.
Fair to say
the thought of rescheduling our flight home was looking like a bloody good idea
and fuck China and their retarded Zombies that should not drive. Over the
course of the day 3 times I had to take extreme evasive action of we could have
been killed and many more evading stupid maneuvers.
It is
wearing me thin, now with school holidays until the end of August it is worse
and I am questioning why we are riding with the daily risks so high……time will
tell.
We finally
arrived at our destination, I was shaken, tired and ready to kill the next
person who did something blatantly stupid, the place was unbelievably stunning
so it calmed me down but make no mistake I was not happy.
I want to write
good things and see the better side but I have to be honest and say right now
the idea of coming home and forgetting China is high on my list but then I
think fuck them why should they win and ruin our trip.
To cap it
all off my Waterproof rugged phone which we rely on for Navigation etc is
taking a dump after only 6 months from new, yeap, you guessed it Chinese, not
so rugged after all but the price of the phone was comparable to a very good
phone in comparison so it wasn’t a cheapy….will
see what happens.
That is all
I have to say for the last few days of travel and I hope it gets better.
Finally
getting into Guiyang city as we need to get a niggling brake issue sorted we
got to a Moto Club Hostel, we are now choosing these first as they are usually slightly
out of town a little, quieter and just that little more pleasant and generally only
moto travelers.
The extra
expense is worth the sanity, the front brake
hopefully sorted we are on our way tomorrow.
A few photos of the last few day to leave on a positive note.
Some ham legs that have been curing / drying for 3 years.
Cool array of lights in a cafe
The Tea plantations
The gorge we stayed for a night and an icefruit treat.
Top view of the gorge.
Stunning with the enormous abrupt cliffs.
The muppet show LOL.
One of the 3000 cafes here in Guiyang
Interesting, a 58 Corvette C1 ripoff brand new, a PHEV
They almost got it but the front is altered and ugly IMO
Our accomodation in Guijang, excellent.
A feed we had with the girl who runs it and her man...good bastids.
Arriving at Menglun priotiry No1 was to wash Xiao Lyu, the radiator fan was coming on a lot so we figured the radiator was full of shit from the last few days in Laos.
I was right, I removed the mesh screen which stopped the big lumps and did a thorough clean, it was blocked buy a lot of fine mud that had set hard.
Botanical
Gardens Ellen wanted to se as they had been recommended.
For me that
wasn’t priority No1 which is unusual given a love gardening, I had some work to
do so took the day out to do it while fresh in my head, Ellen went for a 22km
long wet walk…with veges.
Our
departure was partly dry then we got a bit of rain, our destination was Puer,
the route took us along the G213 road which was cool, we came across quite a
few fresh slips and small landslides covering half the road which made in
interesting then the show stopper, a landslide that had bought down a tree, it
was too big to Armstrong out of the way.
Ellen
talked with some guys and a call had been made, we had past a small town about
5km back so decided to have some lunch rather than look at the leaves and
trees.
Getting
back to the town we talked with some locals and he gave us a sneaky little back
road which was stunning but all that did was take us down the Expressway which
we are not allowed on, we proceeded to the station as we were right there
anyway and thought we would ask given the G213 was closed.
Stopping at
the booth Ellen just said we want to get to Puer, the girl said no problem,
give me your registration etc, we didn’t even have to plead that G 213 was
blocked and closed so we wrote it down on their official sheet and off went
where we weren’t allowed to go…or something like that.
It was
about 70km long that we got to go on and it pissed down so to be honest it was
quite nice for a change to smash some miles quickly.
Arriving at
Puer which has an old town we got to our accommodation and we were wet having
had heavy rain pumped in for over 5 hours, AC on and Chinese Laudramat in full form
we hung everything out to dry.
That afternoone it slightly cleared so we headed to old town, the reason we went to puer, it was
nice but very terrorouisty, funny enough the food was not badly priced I think
because there was a lot of other venders, mid evening concluded the old town
with bellies fulla fud.
Yuanjbiang our mid stop on the way to Kunming and east, the road was awesome and even dry, a few mudslides from yesterdays rains, no point in mentioning we nearly got taken out when a car cut clean across us at an intersection, the girl in the Passenger seat SHAT herself as we nearly intruded through her window, I could see right through the whites of her eyes to the braindead driver, I love Chinese drivers.
Yuanjiang, we got to our accommodation, a little bit out of town, we were upgraded from the std room we had booked to an apartment bigger than our place at home, see Ellens vid for that,
Our mission took us on a slight detour to Kunming, we still had a front brake shudder that needs sorting so we took her in to the dealership for a gork.
Now, an hour before getting in to Kunming it pissed down again...I know, never heard of that before, numbnuts sitting in the riders seat forgot to zip us his rear leg vents, such was the spray rolling around and the puddles/ponds quietly filled up my riding pants .....wet gruds and nuts for my act of unprofessionalism.
Ever cloud has a silver lining at the moto club hotel was outstanding to say the least, I am the only and first foreigner to have stay so the owner said lets have a party....hell yeah.
The guys were excellent and a local restaurant cooked up a feast which we all chowed down, it was cool meeting the traveller guys, one dude on a BMW1200GS did 1700km in one day to get there....that normally take us 2 weeks!!
Some pics, young fella offer me a smoke, I said no thanks ...and jokingly if it was a gin I would be in, he came back witha Bombay and said here you go...priceless.
The Hotel front
The lads and ladessses
I was fleunt in chinglish after a coupla grogs
The owner and us, very nice guy
Leaving Kunming we stabbed the map to a town that was about as far as we could make ground, Ellen found a hotel and we got to it only to find it was another moto hotel and the owner knows the dude in Kunming, unreal, good day to buy a lotto ticket.
The final
night was one of little sleep as an event in town saw VERY LOUD music
howling till well past 1.00am, the beat was so much it was reverberating
through the pillow and with earplugs in not much better, we were on the 7th
floor so fuck knows what it was like at ground level….not sure if I am sounding
old or the noise was unreasonable...you choose.
The border,
exiting Laos, the customs wanted a piece of paper for Xiao Lyu we didn’t have,
we explained that the one we had given them along with one other sheet was what
they gave us (twice cos they suffed up) but for some reason they had to have something else, at that point
we raised our voices and said that is it, THAT IS IT, I was waiting for them to
try and fine us or ask for money but somehow everything came ok??, then the
customs lady (stoney face) was thumbing through my passport saying you don’t
have a VISA for China, I cannot stamp you out…..WTF.
I said no
we get a 30 day free VISA we do not need anything else, she was insistent and I
had to stand my ground saying I don’t care stamp me out and I will deal with
the consequences (for which there are none.)
I yelled
over to Ellen and next thing her border guy said I can’t stamp you out you
don’t have a VISA…ffs NO-ONE seems to know what is going on.
Next thing
there are phone calls and Laosgabba backwards and forwards across the customs area, stoney face then grabbed my passport, stamped it with hammer force (cant touch this...doo doo do do) and
threw it back on the counter, so, me being correct was my fault and I am to
blame because she didn’t know her job…works for me LOL.
Ellen got
signed out under the same and we walked out under a veil of customs nasty fog cementing our thoughts of Laos(y)
Then to cap
it all off’ a dog was trying to have a go at us, by this time all my “fluffy”
points were used, the border control guards thought it was funny then the dog
came in too close so I went for it and kicked it just nicking it … the border
guards then stepped in a shoed it away, my face to them they knew I was on no
mood for that shit and they realized if the dog came in again they would be
carrying it out.
Over to
China side, parked the bike for inspection, no problem, we went in, Ellen one
way and me with the moto the other side.
The first
lot did a full inspection, VIN, Engine numbers and all three cases open and
this is normal. This fello was pretty cool and I helped him with the numbers
which he appreciated.
Then, the
next crowd signaled me and the bike to come through, I had to push the bike
around the barrier arm to stop it about 2 meters from where it started.
Then the
next search, the guys had been watching the previous guys check everything, then
fuck face, I think brother of stoney face above made me open up again and he
pulled everything out again, I bought into it to keep the peace until we had
stuff all over ground then I had words and said you watched them pull it all
out and inspect why the second round?, he continued being a power hungry idiot
so I piped up and said not so politely (which he seemed to understand) anything else you
want you want to pull out you can pack it back in properly yourself.
The search
finished right then at my disgruntled tones, then fuck face just walked off,
wanker, the other young lady looking slightly embarrassed at his antics and she was polite.
For some
reason they looked at our maps which became the next subject of interest, they
unfolded both of them and asked if I bought them in Laos or China, smelling a
tax rat I said China (because we did) and they lost interest, (one map of
Yunnan and one of Laos so clearly a plot from international drug runners and carrying massive weapons .......from Cromwell LOL).
To say I am
done with Laos is an understatement and my love for Chinese border control
power hungry muppets is right up there too, I understand they have a job to do
but there is a point where unreasonable becomes their main game which is
corrosive.
I feel the
last part of our trip has been a real trial 99% by bureaucratic power hungry
unhelpful idiots, we had some fun on the Americas trip border wise but easy
compared to this, also my South Korea, Russia and Stans was a walk in the park
next to these clowns.
I don’t like
writing negative stuff but be fucked if I am going to say how wonderful they
were and how wonderful Laos is, cos they weren’t and it wasn’t.
If Laos was
on your list of places to go …..spend your well-earned money somewhere else is
our honest opinion.
Rant over,
hopefully some plain sailing ….at least for bit.
I like to
be positive about things, I like to see the good side of things, I like to say
yeah man rip into it you will love it.
Every place
has its shiny side and not so shiny side and my perspective of Laos is from a
Motorcycle Adventure Traveler with a bit of 3rd world experience
from yesteryear travels.
If you are
simply taking the train from top to bottom on smooth straight rails with no
drivers then Laos is great, go to the few terroruist spots and enjoy your G
& T…which we did for 4 days on our mid break.
Luang
Probang is mint and if you ask about Laos that is the least dirty place here.
Some countries
it is harder to finding that shining light and you have to look a little deeper .... here I would have to say it was
more of a power cut.
The state
of their main roads is beyond normality given this is how the whole country and
neighbouring countries move their goods around, there is no dispute there is money
here but it disappears in communistic corruption and on a commercial scale this
must be costing their economy millions in lost time and fucked suspension, tires
as quick as that....just to start with.
While we
have enjoyed most of our stay there were (quite a few) days when we nearly got
cleaned out (within inches) from retarded X ray vision drivers who should be
shot, other places surprised us, not because of the stunning display of cesspit
rubbish and accompanying awesome smell but the people who made it nice.
The people,
ok, for the most very nice, language barriers got in the way a little but google
translate and a smile always sorted it out, as long as they don’t get in a car
they are nice.
Whitefacetax,
on our last day arriving at the border town of Boten we found a place for lunch,
we asked how much as there is very rarely a price, the guy had a quick yarn and
when the lady looked up and saw me she came over, both Ellen and I handed our
phones over at the same time one to each of them so they could tap in the
price, pretty common.
She tapped
in $60000.00 kip into my phone and he tapped $50000.00 kip in Ellens phone. We
looked at each other and I showed the guy the $60000.00 tag….he looked awkward
for second then they started to have a brief yelling match as we laughed at
them and said forget it we will go elsewhere where we can trust them and no it
was not for two different dishes so it was clear what was asked, this sort of
thing happens nearly on a daily basis, it seriously dampens my enthusiasm for
Laos and it infuriates me so I say fuck you I will take my money elsewhere…you
lose.
All in all
we have ticked that box per se… and we are not box tickers, not with the lust
of moto travel we normally find in countries own uniqueness and again this is
from a moto travelers perspective, this lack of lust starts right back at the bureaucratic
excellence of VISA and vehicle timing, the BS of NOT even having us in the
system which in an accident or Police event would have been a total disaster, the X ray drivers who can see around corners and the whitefacetax engineers.
While Laos
is poor, very 3rd world for the most, a lot of this is by corruption
(Communism at its finest) but there are a lot of new cars everywhere, biggest
disappointment here is the cesspit of rubbish, you can be poor and have a
little stick house with a new Ford Ranger or Toyota Hilux parked outside but to
just throw shit everywhere starting from right outside your very own window,
car, house or wherever, they treat the entire country like a rubbish tip which is
shitty.
The open disrespect
they show their own country is disappointing, there is a difference between
poor and fucken lazy (Laosy).
Tomorrow we
cross back to China and to be fair I am happy to be out, I just asked Ellen her
feelings, she said "I am pleased we came and did it but I am very pleased we are
heading back to China"….never thought I would hear her say that, there your go…..downhill both ways LOL.
With around 8500 km on Xiao Lyu we can share some throughts, feelings (yes I have them) and opinions (and these) to know now what we know rather than internet waffle.
There is only one bad.....the rest I could not be happier with and the bad is not a biggie.
This is our take on the bike thus far, we mention on there about comparision to QJMotor 450 and CFmoto 450 which our choices came down to when we were buying the buying.
There were many in the mix as previously yarnings were about.
I have to say hand on heart we are extremely happy with the Moto Morini 450, smooth capable, comfortable and thus far reliable.
Things I did not dicuss on the vid are that the MM is 20mm longer in the wheelbase than the CFmoto, this little extra length adds up to much better stability on trashy roads or gravel etc, this makes quite a difference when you are riding for extended periods and wanting the bike to track well instead of trying to switch ends.
The weight comparison etc, I watched the MCN video which "tested" the BMW 450, Kawasaki 500, CFmoto 450, QJmotor 450 and the Moto Morini.
I found it quite laughable that it was a mid sized adventure comparo for adventure and offroad then they praised the BMW for really firm sports handling....WTF, the op was raving about the CFmoto as well so it felt like a German and KTM style (CFmoto and KTM are bed buddies if you didn't know) paid promotion and detracted from what the comparo was all about.
Anyway, the CFmoto is a good machine but I feel everything on the Moto Morini is a little more refined, it feels much smaller and lighter than the CFmoto, the Moto Morini carrys it extra weight (mostly the factory centrestand which is standard) low giving the bike a low Centre of Gravity.
My Tenere at home is a brilliant bike but I have had to chop the seat considerably to help with my standover height from being longitudinally challenged (Tenere is 880mm) whereas the Moto Morini is 840mm, 40 mm when you are up there is enormous so I find the Moto Morini much more approacable from that aspect, again this is an issue only if you are shorter.
To sum up, the Yamaha Tenere 700 is an extremely well respected benchmark adventure bike and I can say that the Moto Morini is simply a deflated in physcial size Tenere 450 with a bigger fuel tank (2.5 liters more for the MM).
Enjoy my take of actual ownership of the bike having ridden many varied conditions.
Nice place,
compared to the rest of Laos this is tourist central with prices to match but
at least the std of everything is better than basement.
While here
we did the normal human type behaviour things and took a tour to the waterfall
via a minivan, although we did do the ci-villain thing it was pleasant because
it had AC.
The
mirrored ceiling in the van was slightly disconcerting but we came out alive
and I got to see the inside running of the suicide drivers.
The
waterfall, Kuangsi was cool, getting to the top first took us to the falls
themselves, they were cool.
Wondering
downstream we found various swimming areas…it was just cool enough but pleasant
as it was warm outside.
Met a
coupla kiwis who claimed they were from New Zealand but then they fessed up to
coming from Auckland…they almost seemed normal having a good chat however
should be treated with caution LOL.
They have a save the bears thing going on too, they we kinda cool but little next to a Siberian brown bear..sorta entry level if you will LOL
In our time
out here in Luang Probang we made the most of good tucka and some G & T as
well as touristy things.
Now this I liked, put em on your fav spirits and see the light, one for you Mrs G
This was
intended to be a park up and stop for a few days after gunning it from immigration
to bad and closed roads and yes it fitted the bill perfectly.
The only
thing and it is common in all touristy spots you struggle to find prices on
things, food, goods, drinks etc there is a distinct white face tax going on
here, Ellen wanted to buy some rice bowls, the pricing difference was huge, we
didn’t really play their stupid game and a couple of times when we asked how
much they tried to stick it to us we just walked off followed by a barrage of
price lowering by them, I say be fair first time and make a sale, pull the piss
and lose a sale, I am absolutely sure if they came to our country and we tried
to stick it to them they would feel the same…..just sayin.
Some other interesting things, we had a sugar cane drink made right there, right then in front of us, while the flavour was ot what I thought it would be it was very very nice.
And some two and three wheeled entertainment
Tomorrow
(Sat 1st August 2026) we leave and head back toward China, we have
to advise the border people, the agent as well as the bond people three days in
advance of our impending departure from Laos, we have to state the actual day
we are going to cross, again nothing comes with simplicity but we are used to
bureaucratically imbalanced people now so hopefully no issues.
